Travel and Tourism

Inns of Romania

The eminently qualified Friedrich Niemann describes four weekend break destinations within driving distance of Bucharest that measure up to his exacting standards

Posted: 20/10/2008

For whatever reason, Romania - with the exception of Bucharest - is not exactly blessed with an abundance of brilliant hotels and accommodation venues. Finding a decent and satisfactory place for the night is often hit and miss. There are plenty of casas and pensiunes, and indeed hotels throughout the country, but unfortunately many of them are designed for the quick buck and lack knowledge of the true requirements and expectations of a traveler.

I love to travel in Romania and explore the country as much as I can. I avoid the big, commercial hotels - which I know too well for obvious reasons - and anywhere without a soul and sense of place. Throughout the years I have discovered several comfortable bed and breakfast venues with a very strong sense of place, and are neither pretentious or luxurious. They are just perfect in what and where they are.

Villa Prato

The sunlit winter garden of Villa Prato in Brasov.

It was while looking for accommodation in Brasov that I happened upon Villa Prato (www.villaprato.ro) by chance. Located right at the foot of the road leading up to Poiana Brasov, next to the bus terminal Livada Postei and the Cercul Militar, Villa Prato is a fully refurbished, yet reconstructed circa-1920s villa. The house comprises six bedrooms and a very nice sunlit winter garden, where breakfast is served. All rooms are perfectly appointed and equipped. The bathrooms are superb, with robust pressure in the hot water - and a shower that even allows tall people to stand fully upright - and have all the amenities you need. The natural wooden flooring, the integration of original elements of the old villa and built-in modern communication facilities make those guestrooms a real place to relax and recharge after a long day of sight seeing or cultural discovery in Brasov or its surroundings. The winter garden allows you to enjoy an excellent breakfast under the Transylvanian sky, no matter the weather. And I have to admit that this breakfast - apart from those provided by the international hotels - has been my most enjoyable in Romania.

Inn of Balaban

One of the many views from the Inn on Balaban.

Strikingly different in terms of location is the Inn on Balaban (www.gobtf.com/innonbalaban/Home.html) which resembles a traditional Transylvanian farmhouse as exhibited in Sibiu's village museum. Its location is unique, sitting on a hill high above the village of Simon, next to Bran, from which the visitor can enjoy 360-degree views of the Carpathian mountains, with Piatra Craiului to the west and the Bucegi mountains to the east - scenic views as many and as long as you wish. In order to get to the Inn one needs to enter Simon, turn left at the church and follow the signs and the gravel road for approximately four kilometres. Once there, you don't want to leave. Although built just two years ago, the Inn takes you back in time in rural Romania. The six rooms are furnished with antiques or rebuilt traditional Romanian peasant furniture and the beds and their linen are so comfortable that you don't want to get up in the morning. Bathrooms have floor heating and tiny little windows allowing you to enjoy the views even in the most private moments. As there is no other place for dinner in the area, the Inn usually offers half board, which comprises a country style three-course dinner (the mamaliguta is outstanding) and a very rich and local breakfast the next morning. No matter the weather, you won't want to leave. In winter, when the road is inaccessible, they pick you up in a sledge from Simon - a truly romantic notion.

Count Kalnoky's Guesthouse

Count Kalnocky's Guesthouse at Miclosoara.

Thanks to its regular media coverage - the Prince of Wales is an occasional visitor - Count Kalnoky's Guesthouse in Miclosoara is no longer a secret (www.transylvaniancastle.com). Getting there is a bit of a challenge, depending which map you are using, but in the end it's surely worth the trip. Miclosoara is about one hour north of Brasov in Szekler Land, so instead of Romanian one is better advised to speak Hungarian with the local people. Count Tibor Kalnoky restored a part of his family's former estate and now offers eight guest rooms in three different buildings scattered around the village. All rooms are amazingly comfortable, decorated in the traditional style, with antiques and old books, tea and coffee making facilities and very comfortable bathrooms. (Avoid the room next to the sauna, as it does not have a private bath and one has to use the bathroom of the sauna.) There is also a billiard room and equipment for badminton or table tennis in the garden. If you are staying for a few days, the guesthouse can store your emptied luggage in order to clear space in your room. Like at Balaban, the price usually includes dinner, which is served family style, meaning that most of the guests sit at long tables and enjoy good country style fare. Apart from the comfort of the accommodation and the overall flair of the place, it is this family atmosphere which attracts me most. Every time I visited I have enjoyed unforgettable evenings, spent in the company of total strangers, playing German card games for hours with a table of British guests or swapping stories over wine with visitors from the US embassy in Sofia.

Noteworthy too is that the guesthouse organises all kinds of tours and trips during your stay, be it wildlife walking tours in the neighbouring woods or trips to Brasov or the fortified churches of the area.

A very nice touch at the Inn on Balaban and in Count Kalnoky's guest house is the absence of TV's in the rooms or telephones - silence is golden!

Machine House in the village of Zabola

The castle at Zabola.

Further northeast, just north of Covasna is the Machine House in the village of Zabola. Until 1946 this building housed the machinery for the Zabola estate of the family of Count Mikes (www.zabola.com). The building sits in a 34-hectare park, which accommodates the old castle and several other buildings that await restoration. Seized and nationalised during communism, then used as a hospital until 2004, once the property had been returned to the family the Machine House was restored and turned into an inn with six bedrooms. Spread over the ground and first floor, the bedrooms appeal due to their contemporary, yet classic design. One walks on the old wooden panels; the furniture is partially antique and partially contemporary. All rooms however have one common characteristic, which is that they are very spacious. Coffee, breakfast and dinner are served in common rooms on the ground floor, which reflect the same 'shabby chic' style of the guest rooms; fresh local fruits are on the tables, as are valuable 'coffee table books' for studying or relaxing. The cuisine of the Machine House is based on 19th century recipes from the family and other noble houses of Transylvania and the always smiling cook Jutka uses local and organic products as often as possible. The grounds are wonderful to stroll in and bear-watching excursions can be organised. The property is run by Countess Katherina's two sons, Gregor and Alexander who live on the estate and consider that saving and conserving the cultural heritage of the region is one of their highest priorities. If you visit in winter do not forget to pack your ice skates as there are few more romantic pastimes than skating on the torch-lit pond of the Castle's park in the evening.

These wonderful, homely and inviting destinations are just four alternative accommodation venues in Romania, and each is highly recommended for weekends away or en-route stops for the night. I have intentionally not mentioned the Delta Nature Resort next to Tulcea - which is one of my truly favourite places in Romania, and considerably more than an inn - as it is no doubt worthy of a stand-alone article. I will continue exploring the landscapes of this beautiful country and am convinced that I will soon discover more of these splendid places.

Update! - find out about another great Romanian hotel here!

Friedrich Niemann is General Manager of the Athenee Palace Hilton.

Comments:

1.

Sunday 14th December 2008 at 13:12

Stefano Leone said:

"Dear Mr Niemann I have stumbled accros your article by pure coincidence. Beutiful pictures and excellent article. Presently i am an executive chef/director working in Thailand. 32 yrs ago i have defected from Transylvania recreated my persona and never looked back. Reading your article broad me back child hood memories which my subconcious erased . Thank you for reminding me the beautiful country we used to know before the comunist destroyed. Have a pleasant journey in life Best regards Stefano Leone"

2.

Monday 19th October 2009 at 21:10

Dirk Hendel said:

"Dear Mr.Niemann.I have been myself several times to Transylvania and it is truly beautifull.I also don't like to stay at the big hotels and have always stayed at" The Country Hotel ", www.thecountryhotel.info,which is located in Harman, very close to Brasov, an interesting and special place, and i think you should have included it in your article since it also was editor's choice in the Lonely Planet 3rd edition ( that's how I found it). Sincerely Dirk Hendel"